Restaurante de cocina francesa con un ligero acento mediterráneo.
Cada vez más peculiaridad en nuestra capital: Taillevent forma parte, como la Torre d'Argent, de estos grandes restaurantes que pertenecen a una familia ayer los Vrinat, hoy los Gardinier. El lugar, el antiguo hotel especial del Duque de Morny, es simplemente suntuoso. En cuanto a la cocina, bajo la dirección de Alain Soliends desde 2002, perpetúa una cierta idea, tradicional, de la alta cocina francesa, tintada con ocasión de un ligero acento mediterráneo. Levantamiento de buey de buey de buey con salsa salsa de flores limonado, foie gras de pato de las Landas al vino de Saint-Estèfo, lugar amarillo de línea batida, algas nori, ostras y lechuga, torneos de buey Rossini, pollo de Bresse en la rotatassoire o nuez de ternera de ternera crujiente croustillante: la gastronomía de Taillevent será, por tanto, consensuada y burguesa, ofreciendo así un espejo fiel de la clientela. El gusto del día es el lado de los comensales. Es difícil no mencionar el servicio: perpetúa de la misma manera una tradición por así decirlo perdida hoy en los grandes restaurantes independientes parisinos, con nada menos que quince cocineros, cinco pasteleros y sobre todo diecisiete amos de hotel. Taillevent ofrece a una cierta elite un espejo tranquilizador y la sensación, necesariamente truncada, de que nada cambia.
The establishment renewed.
Le Taillevent is an institution, even its wine list is legendary. When you set foot there, passing the voiturier, you set foot in a just renewed two stars establishment. Honestly, you have to enjoy the ceremonial. First, they ll take care of your coats, then you’ll be escorted through the hallway, then through first room, and finally to the main dinner room, greeted all the way long by members of the staff. This is pure classism. Yet, classism wouldn’t feel right if it felt old and out of fashion. Here, the place has been renovated is a very elegant manner, stressing the classism but removing the unnecessary ornements from past to add designed elements. For those who reads my reviews, it’s very similar to the « trente trois ». Beautifully integrated. And if you add the perfectly balanced Michelin star service (close, warm and yet distant enough), you feel exactly what you should : You have all the Michelin multistars code within a contemporary setting.
The question is: does the cuisine match the place? Yes. Just like La Tour d Argent or Lucas Carton, the task is daunting. But the chef manages the same balance the designer or the brigade de salle did: Classism with a dash of contemporary. So dishes are revisited, just the way they should ever be.
The crowd was a mix of business, couples and friends enjoying a great meal. The mood is very classic and upscale. Gentlemen do not need to wear a suit anymore, but I did think that the atmosphere calls for it.
It’s a solid 2 stars, I had a great experience.
Update 2022: Went back after a year. It’s called an institution because it’s stable. And it is. What I may have not praised enough in my previous review was the quality of the wine list, but the rest was as good as the first time. Don’t get me wrong, I did not have the same dishes. The chef does change the menu. Actually, you can compare the menu I took last year to the one this year. There’s movement, but as the famous quote says “Everything has to change so that nothing changes”. Those changes guarantee you that Taillevent will stay Taillevent.
Having said that I did prefer this time.
Definitely a very solid two stars